Firstly I prepped my model. This involved making sure her hair was fully covered, although in a usual situation a bald cap would have been made and applied, to save time I used a swimming cap. Although this would leave a small seam on the cast, this can be easily sanded down. I also applied a small thin layer of Vaseline to any exposed hair (eyebrows, lashes and any small sections of hair that have not been covered by the cap)
I also made sure that my model was wearing old clothes, however I covered her with a bin liner to make cleaning up a lot easier. I used quick setting alignate, because of this I needed an assistant to help me get the mixture on as quick as possible before it set. I used very cold water in this case as mixing alginate with warm water will cause it to set almost immediately, wasting the product. I started by applying the aliginate to the top of the head and letting it run down the models face. I also had another assistant on stand by with a small spatula making sure that the nostril were always free to ensure my model could breathe.
Once the alginate had set I then applied layers of plaster bandage over the top, this is so the cast can be removed from the model and will hold its shape. I made sure to apply enough layers to the weakest points to ensure it would not break or rip during removal.
Once the plaster bandages had set the cast could be removed. For this i asked my model to lean forward (whilst holding the front of the cast as to ensure it would not fall off) and wriggle her face, this loosens the alginate from the face as well as encouraging air inside the cast which would then release it. This step should be greeted with a lot of patience, as you do not want to damage the cast, after a while it should release. Below is my cast immediately after removal.
After this step I had to cast my models fingers, to save the alginate from shrinking I applied wet paper towels to the inside of the cast.
To cast my models fingers I used two small plastic pots, this enabled my model to place her hand inside and pour alginate around it, the pots make sure the alginate does not run. I made sure my models fingers were all spread out and were not touching the sides of the pot.
Plaster was then mixed to be poured into the mold. When mixing plaster I used one cup of water, I then added the plaster powder until it formed a small island above the water (however I find that trail and error along with experience helps in this case, as the measurements for plaster can sometimes not turn out correctly) the plaster should be runny but still have a bit of thickness to it.
I began by pouring a small amount of plaster into the areas prone to air bubbles (eyes, lips) before pouring the rest of the plaster in, after waiting for it to thicken up slightly it became thick enough that it will stay in place when moved. When it got to this stage i thickened the rim of the cast, this is because it is the weakest part of the cast, this should reinforce it so it doesn't break and cause sharp edges.
Whilst the plaster is setting it will begin to give off heat, wait until the plaster feels cool and hard before removing the plaster bandages (carefully) and alginate.
below is my facecast shorts after removal, note the small air bubbles that have formed around the lips, these can be easily removed with a small chisel.
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