more clay has to be added around the edge of the sculpt, this is to that a gap is created so when the foam latex is added it has a small gap to squeeze out any excess. Gaps where the eyes should be should be filled with clay also. This is easier to explain by looking at the photograph below.
The clay layer should be relatively thin and must not cover the keys, as you can see there is a small gap where the edge of my sculpt ends. Next, vaseline should be added to any visible bits of cast, this includes the thin visible line around the sculpt, the mouth, eyes and the keys. This is to ensure it does not get stuck and can be easily removed.
Here we can see release spray being applied all over the sculpt, this again is to make sure it comes away from the cast easily.
Again a clay wall has been built around the edge of the cast, this is so plaster does not run off (mod-roc was also applied around the wall just for extra support)
This is the part where it is vital not to get too attached to your sculpt!
Plaster is carefully poured over the sculpt, as well as burlap for added strength, making sure plaster gets into all the details.
Once set, the clay wall can be removed and the two sections can be carefully pulled apart (bye bye sculpt)
(upside down) this is the plaster negative of my sculpt! As you can see the clay beak has got stuck in the end of the plaster, this was then removed (with a lot of fiddling about) with a small wooden tool to prevent scratching the plaster cast.
Here is the remnants of my sculpt! All of this clay was then removed and my cast was cleaned as well as possible. I scraped the large parts of clay off then used wet paper towels to (slowly but surely) remove as much as the little smear of clay as possible!
I now have my positive face cast, and my negative sculpt cast and it is ready for foam latex to be made!
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